# 10" Woofer Help

**URL:** https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763
**Category:** DIY
**Tags:** driver-selection, driver-compatibility, driver-quality
**Created:** [September 10, 2026, 5:42pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763 "2026-09-10T17:42:34Z")
**Posts on this page:** 20
**Page:** 1

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### Author: ![Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/j/ee59a6/32.png) [@Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/Johnny5jz)
#### Post date: [September 10, 2026, 5:42pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/1 "2026-09-10T17:42:34Z")

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So I a starting to plan my next build. I am looking to copy the size and shape of the Devore Orangutang O/96. I like the look and proportions of that speaker. I am going to use the Denovo Audio PS92-8A as the mid-tweet, and am looking to pair it with a 10” woofer. I want to try a few things with this speaker. One, I am going to use the Peerless DX20BF00-04 as a rear firing tweeter. I have always wanted to try one, and this seems like a good opportunity. Second, I would like the woofer to be sealed. To align with the look of the Orangutang, a 10” will be used and will be used in a ~2.3 cubic foot enclosure. So far I narrowed it down to the Peerless SLS 830668, the SB Acoustics SB26SFCL38-8, and the GRS 10SMP-8. I am leaning towards the Peerless at the moment but am curious of everyone’s thoughts.

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### Author: ![silverD](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/silverd/32/130_2.png) [@silverD](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/silverD)
#### Post date: [September 10, 2026, 6:14pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/2 "2026-09-10T18:14:34Z")

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What about the RS270-8? Tony Gee has a Black Box design that uses them.

> **[Humble Homemade Hifi - Archive](https://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/archive.html)**
>
> Very high quality loudspeaker kits, components, upgrades, modifications and custom solutions. Humble Homemade Hifi - the one stop loudspeaker shop.

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### Author: ![Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/j/ee59a6/32.png) [@Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/Johnny5jz)
#### Post date: [September 10, 2026, 6:33pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/3 "2026-09-10T18:33:28Z")

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> [@silverD](#):
>
> Tony Gee has a Black Box design that uses them.

Even with the capacitor to boost the low end, it still doesn’t play as deep at the other options I listed. I do like the RS270 though. I have used it in a couple designs.

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### Author: ![a4eaudio](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/a4eaudio/32/304_2.png) [@a4eaudio](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/a4eaudio)
#### Post date: [September 10, 2026, 6:40pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/4 "2026-09-10T18:40:34Z")

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Scanspeak Discovery 26W/4534G

RSS265HF

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### Author: ![Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/j/ee59a6/32.png) [@Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/Johnny5jz)
#### Post date: [September 10, 2026, 6:55pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/5 "2026-09-10T18:55:57Z")

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Both are a little out of my price range. I mostly am wondering people’s opinion on the 3 I listed.

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### Author: ![raddon](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/raddon/32/41_2.png) [@raddon](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/raddon)
#### Post date: [September 10, 2026, 10:05pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/6 "2026-09-10T22:05:52Z")

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Hey Mr Johnny, try it, you might like it. I used a RS270 in a 24 Liter closed box with 600uF caps and got about 40Hz F3, One of the results was that Xmax was not exceeded, even with gobs of power. I am planning to do a similar design with a Peerless 12 inch XXLS woofer. The Peerless 830668 should work well with a cap assist, don’t know offhand about your other choices,

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### Author: ![Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/j/ee59a6/32.png) [@Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/Johnny5jz)
#### Post date: [September 10, 2026, 10:28pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/7 "2026-09-10T22:28:36Z")

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All 3 model about 40hz f3 without a cap. The Peerless looks to play the loudest without hitting xmax..The SBs are second in terms of output but play a couple hz lower. The peerless i think is the only one with copper shorting rings.

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### Author: ![Wolf](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/wolf/32/51_2.png) [@Wolf](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/Wolf)
#### Post date: [September 10, 2026, 11:22pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/8 "2026-09-10T23:22:54Z")

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I think you should look at the top end of the responses, as that is what will shake out which is better for this challenging build.

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### Author: ![Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/j/ee59a6/32.png) [@Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/Johnny5jz)
#### Post date: [September 11, 2026, 1:19am UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/9 "2026-09-11T01:19:32Z")

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Of the 3 I listed, they all have a breakup peak between 2k and 3k. The SB and GRS are about 15db in magnitude and the Peerless is about 7db. I plan on crossing the woofer to the wideband about 400-500hz, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to deal with.

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### Author: ![Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/j/ee59a6/32.png) [@Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/Johnny5jz)
#### Post date: [September 11, 2026, 1:52am UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/10 "2026-09-11T01:52:27Z")

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Here is a plot with the 3 woofers. First image is the transfer function, the second is the max SPL before xmax. The SB is red, GRS is green, and the Peerless is Blue.

 ![3 tens transfer](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/uploads/default/original/2X/6/6da32a272d48febdeb46227a724484f337ea1285.jpeg)

 ![3 tens spl](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/uploads/default/original/2X/e/ef4252a1bd9015b50677b4198f622e6260009d41.jpeg)

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### Author: ![raddon](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/raddon/32/41_2.png) [@raddon](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/raddon)
#### Post date: [September 11, 2026, 3:01am UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/11 "2026-09-11T03:01:39Z")

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What does excursion and SPL look like at 10, 20, and 50 watts?

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### Author: ![Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/j/ee59a6/32.png) [@Johnny5jz](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/Johnny5jz)
#### Post date: [September 11, 2026, 9:51pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/12 "2026-09-11T21:51:02Z")

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All 3 have similar output at the different wattages. They are similar sensitivity. The big difference is xmax which the GRS has 5mm, the SB has 8.25mm, and the Peerless has 10.8mm. The peerless can take a bit of power. I really curious if anyone has actually listened to any of these. I know the peerless were used in the Tarkus, and the SBs have looked interesting since they came out. The GRS was just another one that modeled well in a sealed enclosure.

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### Author: ![KenRhodes](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/kenrhodes/32/82_2.png) [@KenRhodes](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/KenRhodes)
#### Post date: [September 12, 2026, 6:16pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/13 "2026-09-12T18:16:46Z")

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The peerless would get my vote but dont think any of these are a bad choice.

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### Author: ![PWRRYD](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/pwrryd/32/78_2.png) [@PWRRYD](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/PWRRYD)
#### Post date: [September 12, 2026, 7:09pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/14 "2026-09-12T19:09:54Z")

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I’m building a 3 way with the old Peerless SDS 10" in sealed bass bins. My new job has kept me busy and away from moving forward and taking any measurements. I think the Qts in my enclosure size is closer to 0.78 so not sure if adding 500 uF or so would make it any better. I guess I could try though.

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### Author: ![KenRhodes](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/kenrhodes/32/82_2.png) [@KenRhodes](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/KenRhodes)
#### Post date: [September 12, 2026, 7:29pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/15 "2026-09-12T19:29:43Z")

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Do it!!!

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### Author: ![Virgil\_Tracy](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/virgil_tracy/32/4292_2.png) [@Virgil\_Tracy](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/Virgil_Tracy)
#### Post date: [September 13, 2026, 1:47am UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/16 "2026-09-13T01:47:10Z")

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I don’t wish to sidetrack the conversation, but could you please elaborate on using a capacitor to extend the f3 of a woofer? I am not familiar with this concept. (If this should be a new topic, please say so.)

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### Author: ![raddon](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/raddon/32/41_2.png) [@raddon](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/raddon)
#### Post date: [September 13, 2026, 1:57am UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/17 "2026-09-13T01:57:05Z")

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The Docs say you want a box Qb of about 1.0, resulting in a 1.0 dB or so bump near the bottom end rolloff. You may need to add some dummy volume insidfe that box to see the effect.

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### Author: ![raddon](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/raddon/32/41_2.png) [@raddon](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/raddon)
#### Post date: [September 13, 2026, 1:58am UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/18 "2026-09-13T01:58:57Z")

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Tony Gee popularized this alingment a few years ago.

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### Author: ![Wolf](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/wolf/32/51_2.png) [@Wolf](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/Wolf)
#### Post date: [September 13, 2026, 2:13am UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/19 "2026-09-13T02:13:01Z")

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It’s best for longer throw drivers, Qtc of 1.1, and 7\<Qms\<10. Called Passive Assist, 3rd order bass alignment, or capacitive loading. Typically uses capacitance in the 500uF to 1500uF range, but I’ve seen as small as 200uF used.

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### Author: ![Virgil\_Tracy](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/user_avatar/discourse.midwestaudio.club/virgil_tracy/32/4292_2.png) [@Virgil\_Tracy](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/u/Virgil_Tracy)
#### Post date: [September 13, 2026, 1:24pm UTC](https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/t/10-woofer-help/763/20 "2026-09-13T13:24:00Z")

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Interesting - thanks for the link.

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