It’s the original bondo filler with blue cream hardener. I buy it in the smaller 14 oz cans because I don’t use that much and it always seems to harden up and dry out inside the can before I have a chance to use the entire container. Sets up very fast, within 1 to 2 minutes, after mixing with the hardener, so I have to work very fast. I therefore mix up several very small batches instead of one larger batch (to avoid waste). The fumes are toxic and highly flamable, so I have to use it outside with a good protective filter mask. So this is probably NOT the product that you are looking for.
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Thanks Bill, I’ll keep looking
After block sanding smooth with 150 grit, then 220, I sprayed the edges with a very light coat of primer. This is what is called a “guide” coat. The only purpose of the guide coat is to clearly show me all the pinhole and other defects that I otherwise cannot see. I have a couple areas near the corners that need attention (see closeups). After the primer dries, I will fill these defect areas with a small amount of the Bondo glazing putty (stage 2), sand it smooth again, and then re-coat with primer.
And I assume that you used plumbers putty on the plumbers delight?
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lol Clay
I have never used automotive spot putty. I see that it is in a foil tube. So I assume it cures when exposed to oxygen. Cross links. I must try it. But where to buy?
Menards usually has it.
Where I am, Lowe’s has it for $12.99 and Menards has it for $6.99.
What Bill is using is a 2 part one - the tube is the hardner. What I use is a one part 1k acrylic putty, but is only for very small pin holes kind of job, cannot really slather on a larger surface.
Menards - Bondo® Automotive Body Filler - 1 Quart at Menards®
see description - it includes the cream hardner.
The last set of images shows the spot glazing putty, which should be similar to the Dohpin putty - good for very small fills like pin holes - Bondo® Automotive Glazing Putty - 4.5 oz at Menards®
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The basic idea, based on my watching of multiple youtube videos, is that the regular two part bondo should only be applied to unpainted or unprimed wood surfaces as a gap filler. Or on bare metal surfaces when doing automotive body work. This is the first stage. But once you prime the wood, you should no longer use the two part bondo. You need to switch over to the one part Bondo glazing & spot putty, as the 2nd stage, to fill in any imperfections that remain. Or you could use the spot putty that Ani linked above, but I have not tried that product. Glazing & spot putty is designed to be applied on top of the primer.
Sadly, I did not use plumber’s putty on the plumber’s delights. They were constructed exclusively with bondo. An obvious oversight on my part. 
Plumber’s putty would probably work well, however, for mounting & sealing driver flanges. 
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This is how it looks after the 2nd guide coat. Looks a little grainy up close, but this is because I applied a very light guide coat. The surfaces on all sides appear to be completely defect free under good light. There are a couple of very small dust specks in the photos, but those little specks will easily sand off. I think I will let this primer cure for a couple days. Then lightly block sand it smooth with 400 grit and apply the first coat of semi-gloss black.
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Looks nice. Bill I am going to hook you up with some double refined Plum Creek MDF scrap. You will love it, except the dust.
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Pretty boring stuff. Like watching paint dry. Sprayed the 1st coat of high gloss black enamel today. Borderline 54F in garage. Very low humidity. Got a little bit of orange peel, but this is only the first very light coat. My experience is that orange peel tends to get smoother looking with the 2nd and 3rd coats. Rattle can says to wait at least 48 hours to re-coat. “Dries to touch in 2-4 hours, to handle in 5-9 hours, and fully dry in 24 hours.” I’m thinking maybe wait 3 days, lightly sand, then spray the 2nd coat.
Sometimes its best to wait for months for the paint to cure.
I painted some Aluminum material and it took 3 months to finally lose its VOC’s / smell before I finished it with silicone grease.
Those baffle extensions are a great idea & well constructed, 4thtry.
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Agreed. Do not want to trap the VOC’s with another coat before they have time to escape. I waited 48 hours for the primer to dry, but I could still smell it a little bit.
You didn’t do yourself any favors using the crappiest spray paint in the most non-ideal conditions… Orange Peel Lives Matter!
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I always get a small amount of orange peel with high gloss, regardless of conditions, equipment used, or paint type. To get a smooth high gloss, it needs to be built up in stages and then buffed out. Elbow grease.
I usually skip the buffing stages. The paints I use take too long to dry and if it looks good enough, I am satisfied and leave it alone.
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Bondo Glazing putty is a staple of wood modeling (for very small imperfections). Very inexpensive at Menards (+1) and expensive at the Auto Parts Store.
It’s total joy is you can put it onto primer to get small things you missed.
Cheers / Robert
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Put together a sketch up drawing and woofer alignment today. The graph is with 30 watts drive level and 0.5 ohm series resistance. Will make about 98dB by pushing it just a little bit beyond the 17m/s vent speed and 5.3mm xmax limits. EDIT: Whoops. The VCAD enclosure screen below does NOT include 0.5 ohm series resistance. This is the value I used when entering the same TS data in WinISD. But when I switched over to VCAD, I could not find where to enter an inductor series resistance value.
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