Some of the parts are bought but nothing is starterd or finalized yet.
Here is the parts bought so far.
The goal is to have a set of speakers that will serve as the mains in my main TV room and be mobile enough to move outdoors for parties and bon fires (this has been hapening a lot lately and I love it). Considering powered to make them easier to set up havent goten that far yet.
I would love some Insperation from you guys on what you would build both looks and design.
Thanks!
I went old school route. Simple butt jointed plywood.
https://i.imgur.com/XfOVG2D.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/o3BuQ2f.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/N6eBC8P.jpg
I might suggest plywood if these will see any outdoor use. Even if it should never see rain. Stuff happens. Such as condensation from temp swing as the sun goes down.
Nice driver combo, when you say active what are you thinking for amplification and XO?
If there was a good option to go active without breaking the bank I would consider it. I have a nice TPA3255 board collecting dust that might be a good option for an amplifier without DSP. One concern I have is that I have heard a few people say that noisy boards sound worse with high efficency speakers. The Dayton KABD dont inspire confidence in me.
Lookig at thee CD, I have an idea that the back housing is a problem. Below is a little information that kinda confirms that.
Dats with the CD sitting on a beanbag facing up:
Dats with the CD in the same location but me pushing down against the CDE/bag while not impeading the throught:
Looking at the spec from audio express it looks like the biggest difference is the cast back housing:
https://audioxpress.com/article/test-bench-sb-audience-44cdn-pk-1-peek-diaphragm-compression-driver
Let’s DIY! Opened the back to see that the back chamber is sealed by two peices of paper, we can do better. I got some craft foam and made a new gasket:
Now the impedance plot no longer changes when I apply pressure. 
A small win!
The chamber has NOTHING in it so lets try a few things:
craf foam and open cell filter foam:
Thick audio felt:
Spitballing: Drill and tap some holes so a small plastic disk can be screwed against the back, to later sandwich felt or foam in between. Then drill small holes through the disk and back cover. This creates an aperiodic vent when sandwiching the previously mentioned material. Finally glue a PVC end cap over it all for a secondary back chamber.
Look’s like the thick audio felt did the best job of smoothing the impedance, it is still far from what I would like to see.
I might have to redesign a better housing and 3d print a few test subjects.
A lot of the back shell is wasted space. The center is the only chamber and the bolt holes are all that is really needed to hold it in place. I’ll probably start by just making a much larger chamber with thicker walls. The oem housing is fiberglass filled nylon, and it rings like a bell.
I have also found pictures of the diaphragms, there is a considerable difference between the two PK options:
