I can tell you that I don’t recommend the TiteBond II iron-on method with raw veneer! 
I tried that method with some raw walnut veneer and got a bunch of cracks. I even let the veneer soak up softener overnight.
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Ahh…That might explain the cracking problem with the speakers I built for my friend.
Just FYI I will be bringing the Oppo.
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Also a pile of cables and a power strip. Might throw an extension cord in there as well.
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Don’t forget my plug strip from last year, JR!
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No backing on these sheets. I have a half gallon of Heat Lock glue coming. Not cheap once you add in the shipping cost, but I just don’t want to risk it.
No worries!
Do you use a clothes iron with the HeatLock like you do with the Titebond II? I assume you do. If that’s true then I’m worried you will experience the same failures that I did.
HeatLock is used with a clothes iron, so it can be a problem I did at least two cabinets using iron on method with unbacked veneer. One, cherry veneer on a flat sided cab, split quite a bit but was easily repaired. Held up just fine.The other was a curved cab done with sycamore. It came out great, looked great for over ten years. Sometime in the last 3-4 years (was retired in storage) it developed big bubbles and blisters.
Yep - iron on for me with Heat Lock. I didn’t have any issues with the crazy madrone on my little SB/Airborne cabinets that were the fault of the glue. That veneer was a wavy mess even after softener. It curled and snapped in a few places along the edge, but I was pressing hard to muscle it into submission with the iron, so it’s my own damn fault.
I never iron on veneer. I do it the slow method. Roll wood glue on the veneer and box, apply and use a roller. Then I flip it veneer side down on a flat table/bench/whatever and let it dry overnight. (Adding weight when necessary) Flush trim and proceed with the next panel. That said, I wouldn’t use veneer that’s wrinkled or requires softener.
The Voicing thread put me in the mood to take another stab at my design for this year. I leaned heavily on the headphone matching approach. Went from a 3rd order electrical on the tweeter with a contour filter to pull down the top octave, to just a 2nd order. Woofer is 2nd order with a notch filter. I chopped it from 16 parts down to 10 and it sounds better too.
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Hello DIY brethren. Please take 30 seconds to register for the event. We need an accurate head and project count so we can determine how much beer we need.
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I’m horrible at naming speakers, so I asked ChatGPT for some ideas. I’m using a Peerless XT in this one and it came up with “XTentia 8”. That works for me!
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Extentiate?
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I’m not sure how it came up with that one. It told me it was a made up word.
I struggle naming speakers these days. Of the two pair I’m bringing to Iowa, only one has a name. Oh well.
I named my iRobot ‘Bob’, so probably won’t be offering up too many name suggestions…
Edit / side note:
After I set up the iRobot App, I saw that I could use hey Siri… so I asked Siri to clean the kitchen and dining room. Siri set up a message- ‘Bob, clean the kitchen and dining room’ shall I send?
Good thing I took a close look, because it was going to send this message to our mechanic/ plumber (Bob) who put in all the plumbing and floor heat system in our house… careful what you ask for 
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I might be a little slow, but I don’t see where I can register at the link?
Also, what are the rules for the tracks played, is it 4 minutes of house and 4 minutes of designer? Will we have the capability to make those CDs at the event on Thursday? I’m not sure I have the software to do that.
I’ll get some answers for you in the morning.
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