Stupid Crossover Question

What I don’t know about crossover design is considerable, so please bear with me.

If I have a two way speaker, say a 6" with 1" dome tweeter, will a second order crossover on the woofer and a third order on the tweeter (or vice versa) usually result in correct phase alignment between the drivers?

I ask because I’ve seen two ways with even or odd order crossovers on both drivers, both connected in positive polarity, and they reportedly work fine. I used to think that if you had the same crossover order on the drivers, the tweeter had to be connected with reverse polarity.

Ages ago I ordered a copy of Speaker Building 101 but it disappeared into the ether…I’m sure that would have answered the question.

Thank you for your indulgence!
Geoff

You would have to measure it. I have used 2nd order with 4th order without changing polarity, which seems correct but I have also used 2nd order for both and did not have to change polarity which seems wrong. I think it has to do with acoustical slopes more than electrical. So your example may work just fine.

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If I can learn VCAD anyone can, trust me, It will give you a greater understanding of what is possible, and the interaction between filter components and drivers. A very small pebble between our feet and shoes can be considerable.

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Yeah, I keep dragging my feet on learning it. I am a creature of old habits.

I guess I like doing things the hard way.:grin:

That is the same school I went to. Hard knoks.

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Paraphrasing what I remember from one of Jeff Bagby’s original whitepapers:

The acoustic center difference (z-axis) between your classic 6”+1” is usually about 25mm, which just happens to be almost exactly 180 deg. phase rotation at around 2 kHz (presumably the crossover point). This is a happy coincidence. This is also one of the reasons why your textbook, symmetric filters won’t work well. The tweeter is creating SPL at a starting point that is approx. 25 mm ahead of or in front of the woofer. By reversing the polarity, or using asymmetric slopes you are aligning the phase.

I agree that playing in any program that can simulate this is the best way to understand it.

Cheers,

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I will use some words that I have read on the forums and in books that I don’t necessarily understand. Hopefully, where I am wrong someone will jump in an correct me and we will learn together.

The MAIN thing that matters when we are talking about slopes is the acoustic slopes. If we are having fun with math and assuming ideal drives, then the acoustic order matches the electrical order of the filter. With real frequency responses and impedance curves they hardly ever match.

(I was typing some stuff here and checking with Gemini PRO and am pretty sure I was wrong. Here is a little of what I thought, followed by what AI is telling me.)

ME: (not totally correct) With different acoustic centers (and other stuff??) we may get close to a good frequency response but poor phase alignment. Adding reactive components (inductors, capacitors but not resistors) shifts phase 90 degrees and can give better phase alignment. Reversing polarity shifts phase 180 degrees. So depending on the electrical order, you may or may not need to reverse polarity. According to AI it REALLY IS ALL ABOUT THE ACOUSTIC SLOPES.

AI: (maybe correct, maybe totally full of sh!t)

Phase integration between drivers at the crossover point is dictated entirely by the final acoustic transfer function, not the electrical order of the filter components used to achieve it.

An acoustic Linkwitz-Riley 2nd order (LR2) crossover inherently dictates a 180-degree phase difference between the high-pass and low-pass sections at the crossover frequency. If your combined system (the driver’s natural mechanical roll-off plus the electrical network) perfectly traces an LR2 acoustic target, the sound waves from the tweeter and woofer will arrive completely out of phase.

If both drivers are wired with the same polarity in a true LR2 acoustic setup, they will destructively interfere, creating a deep null at the crossover point. Therefore, one of the drivers—typically the tweeter—must have its polarity inverted so that the signals sum perfectly flat (+6 dB at the crossover point for Linkwitz-Riley alignments).

The electrical order is simply the tool used to shape the driver’s natural response to fit that acoustic target. The scenario depends on what that extra capacitor actually does to the final output:

  • Hitting an LR2 Acoustic Target with a 3rd Order Electrical Filter: If you use a 3rd order electrical network to achieve an LR2 acoustic slope, it usually means you are aggressively compensating for the tweeter’s natural rising response, an impedance peak, or proximity to its fundamental resonance (F_s). Because the final acoustic output is still strictly LR2, the 180-degree phase difference remains.

  • Changing the Target to a 3rd Order Acoustic Slope: If adding that capacitor actually steepens the final acoustic slope to a 3rd order alignment (such as a 3rd-order Butterworth), the acoustic phase difference between the drivers shifts to 90 degrees. In a true 3rd-order acoustic crossover, the drivers will sum flat on-axis regardless of whether the tweeter is wired in normal or reversed polarity. The choice of polarity in this case simply dictates whether the main vertical radiation lobe tilts upward or downward.

Because an acoustic LR2 slope fundamentally requires a 180-degree phase flip to sum correctly, you still need to reverse the tweeter’s polarity to avoid a null, even if the electrical network driving it is third order.

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I have often used 2nd order on the woofer and 3rd order on the tweeter. If you are breadboarding the crossover and measuring and tweaking, you can reverse polarity on the tweeter and get a deep reverse null that shows good phase integration.

Hope this helps. I have sort of given up on VituixCad. too many undocumented “tips” to get a good result. If Kimmo would write a real start to finish manual, I’d put in some serious effort to learn it.

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Thank you gentlemen, those comments are extremely useful to help my understanding, particularly that it’s that the acoustic, not electrical, response which matters.

I think my misunderstanding stems from the misconception that loading driver responses into Xsim, trying different parts values, and assuming that the resultant electrical FR is what you hear.

As for Vituix, I find that trying to understand, let alone use it, too difficult and will push out other valuable knowledge such as ‘what’s the best Hendrix live album’…

Cheers

Geoff

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Well, my question on the Hendrix live album has just become more complicated as his Estate has just announced the release of his first Berkeley 1970 set. It has been available on grey area labels and bootlegs, but this one should have great sound.

It’s the source of the much admired take of Hear My Train a Comin’, Johnny B Goode and a great Purple Haze. The Estate claims it’s the “complete” show, but Foxy Lady is missing. Booo…

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