After Indy24 was intrigued by the Apex (Javad’s 2 way with CSS sdx10 gen2 and giant waveguide), later Kerry’s passive exotic finish version at CSS-diy25.
But had built 1.2cuft box, used RSS210HF and a visaton waveguide. Built unfinished box mid-late 2024 figuring tinker with active but it just not work out - ignorance heh.
Then figured, before veneered figured make hole larger, got a 3D printer Dec2024 thus could make replaceable midrange cups. Tried to use for Indy25 tweeterectomy, using Mark Audio pluvia7 and tinkered with repurposed Seas L12 coax. Abandoned the pluvia+rss210, so much padding. Was wired with speakon in back where L12 passive xover sat inside. Then doing better measurements on spin jig, noticed how bad the mid cup resonated, massive distortion under 300hz. I was also bummed veneer job not great. Think oversanded some of the mdf where absorbed and swelled from the wood glue (iron on method) - plus burly type veneers finicky. Almost wanted to scrap the whole box and repurpose the RSS210’s… then figured new use. Have pair of Morel CAM558’s on hand, one used other discounted - should check for consistency of the two but not gonna invest more so roll with it.
Picked up some of the little peerless faceless tweets on clearance from PE, think Joseph Crowe had some writeup and horn for them as well. Printed up ‘faceplate’, this time also isolating better with speaker gasket and added set of binding post on rear to have access to all 3 drivers - because oh yeah, there’s a CSS APR10 on the back of this box.
Pic of them when was on verge of getting them out of site, mentioned on group chat couple weeks back
So… the pic of the blub’s, not get to taking measurements yet, sometime this week.
Saw notes about Ben getting RSS210 up to 850. Not feel as guilty padding down lighter voice coils found in the dome mid and tweet. Imagine gonna have to nasty diffraction with the mid equidistant-ish. Could have twisted the mid-tweet but i’ll keep with the aesthetics and hopefully deal with that fallout. Targeting about 800/3500.
IMO there are almost always things that can be done to work with or around issues in a build. Just gotta be open minded about the result possibly not being exactly like you imagined. My faux Pas build had all kinds of screwups: Cut the sides to 34.5" instead of 36", So I stuck with the new height and added little bases that IMO actually looked better than none. I also had issues with veneer bubbling causing sanding through the first stain layer. Then I used the wrong tint polyurethane than what I wanted. But it ended up looking dead-on alot of the “distressed oak” finishes that have been coming on speakers so I just rolled with it. I had a big standing wave resonance inside the box that I tried stuffing top/bottom of the tower and changed the port. Many other little booboos that I had to fix or work around. For a long while I was not satisfied with the upper bass/lower mid response. But I guess it takes PA style woofers a looong time to fully breakin. Eventually they became my favorite speakers.
If the mid cup was ringing that far down. Could maybe have added some asphalt sheet/dynamat stuff around the outside to damp and add mass. Or glue on fender washers.
Depending on the finish you already have on there. Could add a tinted finish over it to hide the blemishes. Or if the blemishes are on less seen surfaces like back/bottom can just paint over with black.
I’m having same issue with accumulating to many finished projects. Been dismantling ones I can’t see myself realy using anymore. I might start trying to get some out to any mildly interested friends/family.
Yeah, was ok with them as active passive hybrid with the L12 coax in it, but then it just makes it limited to a biamp/dsp setup. Had even made an external passive add on xover but that felt little clunky. Most of those efforts about a year back.
Did take my measurements, tried couple variations but landed on this to start.
I notice the dome mid bunches up 2k area and saw that while measuring where 0-20 sinks, but then bumps back up as get out further in angles. Run things through dsp, no filters but can tinker with simulated notches. Like have a notch off to the side in xover schematic that notches 2k but not try with and without yet, have to run through some more test tracks and wire up the other one since my ears aren’t reliable with single speaker.
Also an optional notch on woofer for the 500hz bump, but not as prominent on on axis measured xover. Definitely not an efficient speaker heh, but i knew that would be the case (didnt spl calibrate rew measurements so ignore the 60db)
