Tweeter QC

I’m not sure what’s going on at PE, but getting a pair of decent tweeters has not easy. A few years ago it was the ND28F-6. I ordered 2 and they didn’t match. One was close to the spec sheet. They sent me another one and it didn’t match either of the original pair.

I ordered 2 of the silkies last month to build JR’s latest Cabrini design and a pair of HiVi RT1.3WE to see if the aluminum SB woofer would work in Craig’s Keramiska design. All of them look wonky. I must have angered the gods of HiFi. I already have a ticket in the works for the silkies. I need to get some more measurements of the HiVis before talking with them about those.

Here are the DC28Fs after break-in with pink noise for 26 hours

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I realize this could be obvious, but have you re-calibrated your test leads and impedance in DATS? (I only ask, because I have got some weird results before and that was the reason.)

I ended up ordering one extra and all three were close enough below 10k. Looks like one of yours might have a leaky faceplate or something.

Yeah - I did calibrate the DATs a few days before. I’ll do that again and see if anything changes.

I didn’t even think to check if any of the screws on the faceplates are not tighten properly. I’ll look into that.

Checking the back cup on that tweeter would be worth checking as well.

Recently I had a tweeter doing something simalar and I pinched it from back cup to faceplate and worked my way around untill the impediance responce changed. For me it was a leaking gasket on the back cup.

Re-calibrated, checked that screws are tight and clamped the back cup in various places with my hand - still the same dip in Z.

That sucks. Hopefully the replacement is in the right ballpark.

That is one thing I liked about ARTA. If you have it do a bunch of consecutive cycles you can poke and prod the tweeter while watching any changes occur essentially in real time.

I used that to tweak the positioning of diaphragms in the horn tweeters I used in the Faux Pas and T-tuxes.

I can’t remember if I still have my LIMP jig. I gave away the Behringer USB interface I used for impedance measurements once I got the DATs.

I had that problem with HiVi Q1R’s. One of the first two had way too much ferrofluid. They sent me a replacement that apparently had no ferrofluid. Had to get another replacement that they measured before sending to ensure I received a decent tweeter

I had a guy from NY reach out to me that built a pair of Keramiskas. He had a faulty RT1.3WE. I think his replacement unit was faulty too.

I always fire up DATS and let it warm up for a few minutes, then perform the shorted leads calibration, then the impedance calibration with a 1kohm resistor, every single time I use it. Since I started doing that I haven’t experienced any issues or questionable measurement. Only takes a few minutes.

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I sleep with my DATS under a heated blanket.

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Update: PE is going to send me 2 new Silkies and they didn’t ask for the problematic tweeters back.

I just checked a pair of ND28’s I bought las year and although the Fs is higher than the spec sheet, they both match reasonably well. I think I got those from Brad, who may have matched them before sending them out. I only ran pink noise through them for a few hours and I probably need to give them a good 24 hr break-in to see where we end up.

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Follow up report - the replacement Silkies were delivered today. Even without any break-in, they are pretty much spot on. I was comparing the first ones to these and notice the faceplates are slightly different. The new ones have a very subtle texture, while the out of spec pair are more matte.

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