I like that Idea. I am not exactly sure how to go about it.
I would mount the tweeter and slice one side with the miter saw. Unmount and remount and slice 3 more times. Please apply tape over the dome exit before doing this, and acknowledge the magnet diameter.
Seems feasible, does the face plate come off?
I bet if you take those four screws out it pops off.
It comes off but the voice coil and terminals are attached in a strange way.
Well poo.
You guys have the best bad ideas 
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The face plate is sort of a shallow volcano shape. So cutting flats in it would result in a non uniform edge thickness. Not conducive to flush mounting..
I was already dabbling with the idea of just surface mounting all the drivers anyway. I’m planning to make grills for these, and I bet the grills will stay on 99% of the time. So it is going to be a diffraction mess no matter what.
I’ll let the idea stew, and see if I muster up the gumption to take the saw to em.
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I ordered more matte black laminate to do the sides. But I’m thinking of still doing something different for the baffle.
Thinking of doing my “T-tux” style of black sides/top with wood grain baffle. It would be covered with the black grill for stealth mode, but pull off the grills for “party mode”. I’d think it still conforms to their request, while giving a little optional extra. What you guys think?
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You could even do something like the JBL blue or oarnge since the grill will cover the drivers most of the time.
Nick has used grills as a way to controll dorectivity rather than become a difraction mess. I think all his designs are made to be used grill on.
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…and a felt baffle has some advantages, with multiple colors available online. I’ve used blue on a couple of my builds (I’ve ‘borrowed’ Nicks grill designs as all of my speakers have grills), but was thinking (since the grills are on most of the time) I should venture out with some Porsche plaid and/or their 928 funky psycho squares cloth designs…
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I suppose I’m not trying to reinvent the wheel for the monkey coffin style, or with the grills. I’ve seen some wild engineered veneers that would be mega cool, but also possibly polarizing, and budget bending. I rooted around in my laminate pile. I’ve got some traditional walnut grain/color stuff, and a dark stained cherry looking stuff (along with alot of lighter color stuff). The walnut is my top pick sofar as I think that would contrast with the white and black best. But my wife has been doing alot of decoupaging stuff, which opens up my eyes to other possibilities.. Like the plaid mentioned.
I marked up the baffle plates this evening for drilling the centers for driver cutouts and mid chamber rabbits. Slow going, as I’m suffering what seems to be “de Quervain’s tenosynovitis” in my back left thumb tendon/tendon sheath. Likely due to all the lifting of small ~40lb boxes of fasteners I’m doing at the new job (I need to stop trying to one-hand them). I started wearing a brace, trying to not aggrevate it… Been a constant annoyance the past few weeks, so I’d like to have it heal up.
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Temps this afternoon dropped enough so it “feels like” only in the low 90s. So i convinced myself to drag the folding table outside and do some work with the circle jig.
I cut out a rabbet of sorts to capture the 4" sewer pipe between the front and back boards.
I used a simple drill guide, with an electric hand drill, through both boards to get the centers roughly aligned. The drill guide is not particularly tight on the bit so it can go off at a slight angle. Better than eyeballing it though. So I figured the 1/4" rabbet would be perfect for some extra tollerance on the ~1/8" wall pipe… Allowing the boards to line up properly at glueup, and gives some squeeze out space for the silicone I plan to use as the adhesive/sealant at the pipe joint.
Mid chamber aligned off-center for less induced resonance.
Forgot I’d need to cut out relief for the tweeter terminals, so it is perched on the terminals in the pic. And the wine bottle is providing counterweight to balance out the woofer weight teetering on the mid chamber pipe. But you get the idea
I still haven’t convinced myself it is worth the risk (of me screwing it up) to trim flats in the tweeter flange. The terminals are not off at angles so there is not a whole bunch of gasket space left to seal if I cut flats. And I’m not adding back cups just to seal the tweeter space. Who do you think I am? 
Though I could meet in the middle and cut the top/bottom since the terminals are off to the sides. It would sort of carry the truncated theme while leaving an interesting difference.
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I would vote “no”. It looks fine as-is and it seems the chance of messing the tweeter up is pretty high.
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Yeah if it were an easier face plate to remove, sure. That one seems iffy.
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Yep, probably going the path of least resistance…
This morning, half asleep, I tweeked my wrist wrong and did something to the tendons/ligaments that I’ve been babying. Hurt so bad I nearly passed out. Ya know: cold sweat and fight off the nausia and tunnel vision (good thing I was sitting down already). So, on my way in to work, I got a better brace to wear and it helped quite a bit. Crossing fingers I wont need to get it checked out. But, typing this out it, I see how it probably sounds like im ignoring the obvious 
Does the Formica just go on heat-pressed like veneer?
You can glue it with wood glue, epoxy, contact cement, etc.
Contact cement type adhesives are typically used for onsite installs. Commercially, heat activated adhesives might be used, but I suspect that would be along with a highly temperature controlled processes…
The thickness of countertop laminate would make it difficult to soak the heat through without overheating the top layer. Necessitating more of a bulk temperature controlled thermal mass method that would probably be cost prohibitive on smaller scales.
At least with contact cements, less importance is placed on getting maximum pressure applied compared to thin veneers. So a simple J-roller is usually the go-to with laminate, instead of high force scraping like veneer.
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