I used this “bat” style toggle to replace the one that came with the tube amp kit. The kit one had a very harsh snap action, but this one had a nice mechanical action/feel. Just by looking at it, it could be the same switch internally as the first ball knob one I posted above. Has the same looking switch body with screw terminals. So it might have the same nice feel.
???
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I put together a 2 in/4 out line level switch box a couple years ago that used two DPDT GB toggle switches. These were the ones that I was talking about on my previous post. Anyway, I did some checking and they are 3 position DPDT types. So maybe that had something to do with the difficult to snap switching action. I’ll pick up one of these newer ball type SPST switches and see how it compares to my old one.
Those end bells look pretty rough and like they need to be bead blasted down to bare metal. I can help if you are interested.
What paint do you plan to use for the laminations and end bells?
I know you don’t like the Rusto stuff, but I will be using Rustoleum semi-gloss black enamel. I have some left over cans that I want to use up. I’ve had pretty good luck with the professional series that comes in the tall silver cans and dries to the touch in 15 minutes. I’ve had bad luck with the regular Rusto semi-gloss enamel in the shorter, non-silver cans, so I won’t be using any of that.
For primer, I will be using Rustoleum universal bonding primer. Can says it bonds to any surface and firmly bonds topcoat to difficult surfaces. Have not used this before, so I will see how it goes.
Thanks for the offer, Craig. Let’s wait and see how my paint job turns out. If the enamel bubbles up badly and starts flaking off, I may take you up on the offer. Just the end bells, though. Both transformers together would have a shipping weight of over 20 lbs. The end bells would only be about 5 ounces each (20 ounces total).
I’m not criticzing your work. I just know how much effort it takes to unsolder/remove transformers and then reinstall them. I hope you are at least using a high temperature paint like this (no primer necessary):
Good info. Here are a few more threads on painting xformer laminations and end bells:
How about automotive engine enamel?
I know a lot of guys will bake the bb-q paint and have reported that it lasts a LONG time.
That engine enamel should work fine.
Picked up a can of the barbecue stuff today. They sell it in either flat black or semi-gloss black. I decided on the semi-gloss; I think flat black would look too dull on the finished amplifier. The label on both versions say that no primer should be used. Just prepare the surface and spray it on.
I cleaned and sanded the power transformer, then mounted it on a small masonite board, and then gorilla taped the board to an old coffee can. Looks kind of strange, but the mounting is solid and should work OK. Tomorrow afternoon will be in the low 60’s with low humidity and moderate winds; a good day for spray painting.
Looks very nice.
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Glad they turned out to your satisfaction.
I like your stand idea. Next time I should try something similar instead of constantly looking for a roll of tape or something to keep the amp level and stable when inverted.
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Thanks, Craig. As an added bonus, when I eventually remove the stand to discard it, I can use it one last time as an alignment template to drill holes for the walnut side panels.
I ordered some of the silicone wire mentioned by @Kornbread in the other thread. They sell it in 16ga, 18ga, and 20ga in various colors. I’ll let you know how it works out when I get it next week.
The stuff is very pliable, but, the silicone cover is extremely soft, you can almost cut it with a fingernail. It also has a fine strand that likes to stray, so keep an eye on errant strands going where they are not supposed to go. I do not think you will be able to twist pairs.